Seychelles

Anse Takamaka, Mahé Island

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Best time to visit

The best time to visit the Seychelles seems to be in October or early November when the weather is dry, there is little wind, the days are long, it's not too hot and the light is good. Late November to February are the wettest months coinciding with the north-west monsoon, which can bring long periods of heavy rain. However, the weather during these months is highly unpredictable and if you are unlucky your visit could coincide with several days of torrential downpours and relatively cool weather. When I was there at the end of December and beginning of January, the first week was hot and sunny while the second week was cloudy and very wet. March and April are the hottest months of the year. May to September is the time of the south-east monsoon, which is characterized by increasingly windy weather, progressively shorter days, and cloudy and cool weather. The rain at this time is very light and the humidity low. The above was mainly drawn from an excellent description of the Seychelles climate in the chapter “Seasons in the Sun” from the book “The Fortunate Islands" (see below).

Books

I found the following publications very interesting and readable:

• “The Fortunate Islands: Gossip from the Seychelles”, by Bernard Georges. This is a series of entertaining short chapters devoted to different aspects of life in the Seychelles, such as climate, food, etc.
• “Reveil Seychellois. Life in Seychelles 1770-1903”, by Denise Johnstone, which describes the tough lives of the early settlers and includes some interesting old photographs.
• “Islands in a Forgotten Sea. A History of the Seychelles, Mauritius, Réunion and Madagascar”, by T.V. Bulpin. This excellent book puts the history of the Seychelles within the context of the history of the other western Indian Ocean islands in the 18th and 19th centuries.
• The Bradt guide to the Seychelles is a comprehensive, very well-researched guidebook which covers every aspect of the islands you are likely to need to know about. The chapter on the Seychelles in the Lonely Planet guide is also good.

Mahé

Unless you plan to spend all your time on the beach or at your hotel, renting a car to explore Mahé is a rewarding experience. The roads are generally good, the scenery is beautiful and there are a number of interesting places and stunning beaches to visit.

Best bases

One of the best places to look for a hotel is the Beau Vallon area. It has a wide range of hotels to suit all budgets and lots of restaurants to choose from. Another good area is the south-western part of the island, which has a similar variety of accommodation and nearby dining options.

Victoria

The Clocktower, Victoria

Even though there are few notable sights worth visiting, the capital of the Seychelles is a pleasant little town to stroll around for a few hours. The highlights, in my opinion, are the Victoria Market; the well-maintained Botanical Gardens, which are a short walk from the centre and include a large enclosure for giant Aldabra tortoises; and Kenwyn House, which is a restored colonial house where you can buy jewellery, art, books and quality souvenirs. The Chanterelle bookshop opposite the Hindu Temple has a good selection of books about the Seychelles. Near to the Clock Tower is the Pirates Arms, a good place for a drink and a snack.

Sans Souci Road

This road, which starts in Victoria and takes you right over the mountains to the western coast of the island, is very scenic and includes a couple of worthwhile stops: the Capucin Mission Ruins and the Seyté Tea Factory. There is little to see of the old 19^th century Mission apart from a few piles of bricks, but it’s worth stopping here for the superb views over the eastern part of the island. I couldn’t find anyone to show me round the Tea Factory (it may be better to arrange a visit beforehand), but the panoramic views of the west coast more than made up for this. The factory has a tearoom where you can sample the different brews they sell.

Takamaka Bay Rum Distillery

On the east coast, right next to the sea, this is a very well-run operation which combines a tour of the distillery and the grounds, some historical information about the beautifully restored Creole house and its owners and a tasting of the different rums they produce, all of which are pretty good. There is also a very smart restaurant, which serves up some original dishes, such as fruit bat ravioli! (www.takamakabay.com/)

Beaches

Hiring a car allows you to stop off at and stroll along the island’s beautiful beaches, which are well worth a visit even if you're not planning to swim or sunbathe. They are one of the highlights of the Seychelles and it would be a real shame to miss them. Most of the ones that I found particularly attractive are in the south-western part of the island. From south to north, first there is Anse Intendance; then Anse Takamaka; and finally Anse Soleil, which is also the location of the Anse Soleil Beachcomber, a small hotel right on the beach that was highly recommended by an American couple I met (www.beachcomber.sc/). Much further north, at the end of the road on the west coast of the island is the beautiful beach which is part of the Port Launay Marine National Park.

Hotels

The pool at the Sunset Beach Hotel

I stayed at the Sunset Beach Hotel in Glacis, which is a five-minute drive north from Beau Vallon on the north-west coast of Mahé. This makes it very convenient for the restaurants at Beau Vallon, although you need a vehicle as it’s too far to walk. It's built on a small headland, which means that there are good views north towards Silhouette Island, west and south towards Beau Vallon. The lounge, restaurant and bar are located in large, high-ceiled, thatched buildings and the premises are full of flowering trees and shrubs. The swimming pool is quite large and overlooks the sea. It also has its own access to a very pretty little beach, where the best rooms are situated. The fact that it has only 28 rooms means that it is a quiet and relaxing place to stay. The room I stayed in was one of the standard rooms, but it was very large with a king-size bed, a lounge area, a large terrace and a well-appointed bathroom. The only drawbacks are that the night I dined there the food seemed very ordinary and the room rate per night is a bit expensive. Having said that, its position, design and general ambience make it a very pleasant option (www.thesunsethotelgroup.com/). As mentioned above, another very attractive and highly-recommended place to stay is the Anse Soleil Beachcomber in the south-west of the island.

Restaurants

There are a number of good restaurants in Beau Vallon. The most atmospheric is the Boathouse, which serves a tasty, reasonably-priced Creole buffet in an attractive building. Other good options I tried are La Plage and Mahek, an Indian restaurant in the Coral Strand Hotel. The Pirates Arms is a good place for lunch if you’re visiting Victoria.

Praslin

Praslin is about an hour’s ferry ride away from Mahé (watch out for flying fish!). Don’t forget to book your ticket in advance as the ferries are pretty full in the high season (www.catcocos.com/). Praslin is big enough to make it worthwhile hiring a car or a bicycle to explore. Anse Volbert is a good base as there is a wide variety of accommodation options and restaurants as well as supermarkets and other shops.

Font Ferdinand

A coco de mer palm at Fond Ferdinand

This is a new natural reserve which includes coco-de-mer palms and is along a dirt track a short distance inland from Marie Louise beach. It's actually better value than its more famous neighbour the Vallée de Mai because a guide is included with the entrance fee whereas you have to hire one separately at the other place. You walk steadily uphill along prepared paths while the guide tells you about the flora and fauna until you reach a viewpoint with good views down to Baie Ste Anne.

Beaches

The prettiest is without a doubt Anse Lazio, though Anse Marie Louise is also very nice. The guidebooks say that you can visit Anse Georgette on the north-west coast by asking at the main entrance of the resort that has enclosed it within its grounds, but I was refused permission when I tried to get there.

Cousin, Curieuse and Île St Pierre Islands



White-tailed tropicbird and chick on Cousin Island

This is a varied and interesting excursion. First you go to Cousin Island, where you stroll along mosquito-infested paths (don’t forget to apply mosquito repellent liberally before you start the visit!) looking at white-tailed tropicbirds and white terns nesting at ground level seemingly oblivious to the groups of visitors standing less than a metre away. The island is home to many other species (www.cousinisland.net/). Then you go to Curieuse Island where you have a barbecue lunch at Anse St José. After that you can visit the residence of Dr William Macgregor, a Scot who lived on the island for ten years in the 19th century treating the lepers who had been sent there, and read about his interesting career. Then you walk for about half an hour to beautiful Laraie Bay on the other side of the island, where there are many giant tortoises and you can swim at the beach and admire the rock formations. Finally, your boat takes you to Île St Pierre, a small islet between Curieuse and Praslin, where there is good snorkelling.

Hotel

I stayed at the Villas d’Or in Anse Volbert. At the end of a very grand driveway,  there are twelve large, very well-appointed bungalows right next to the beach and situated in a large garden. Breakfast is brought to your villa punctually every morning. Anse Volbert is about a 30-minute walk along the beach if you don’t have a car. The manager, Pierre, is a very friendly guy who manages the place extremely efficiently. The only drawback is the tiny swimming pool, but with the beach right on your doorstep, you don’t really need it. All in all it’s pretty good value for money.

Restaurants

In Anse Volbert the best restaurant that I tried is the Café des Arts. Decorated with original modern art, the food is pricey but very well prepared. Shorts are not allowed in the evening (www.cafe.sc/). Another good option is Les Lauriers, which organises a Creole buffet every evening. It was packed the night I went (www.laurier-seychelles.com/) . The meal I had at La Pirogue was also good value for money and the place itself is attractive and the service good. They also provide a free taxi service from your hotel to the restaurant and back.

La Digue

Map of La Digue

A 15-minute ferry ride from Praslin, La Digue is pleasantly different from the other two islands as there are very few vehicles and people get about on foot or by bicycle. Everywhere is within walking or cycling distance and there are no steep hills, except the one that leads up to the Bellevue restaurant and the Nid d'Aigles peak in the centre of the island. 

Walks

If you only do one excursion, make it the one to the beautiful beach at Anse Source d’Argent. To get there you have to pay SR100 at the entrance to L’Union Estate and then walk for about 20 minutes along a track past the run-down plantation buildings and a giant tortoise pen until you get to the series of beautiful white sand beaches "decorated" with huge rock formations and boulders – a very photogenic place. Another nice walk is through the centre of the island, past pretty local houses set in lush gardens to Grande Anse. It only takes about half an hour to walk there from La Passe. There is also a road that loops around La Passe past outlying houses and hotels and from which a road climbs steeply to the Belle Vue Restaurant (great views) and on to the highest point of the island, Le Nid d’Aigles. Finally, there is the road that goes north out of La Passe, round the northern-most tip of the island and then follows the eastern coast southwards past some pleasant beaches. Don’t miss George Camille’s colourful paintings at his art gallery at Anse Grosse Roche (www.georgecamille.sc/). His work is also on show and for sale at Le Repaire hotel/restaurant in La Passe. The road continues to Anse Banane, where there are a couple of juice stalls and then ends abruptly at Anse Fourmis.

Wildlife

An interesting visit is to the Veuve Special Reserve, which was set up to provide a home for the endangered Seychelles Black Paradise Flycatcher (veuve, or “widow” in French, is the local name for the bird). It is better to walk around the reserve with one of the conservationists, otherwise you probably won’t spot the birds. The information they give is interesting, not just about the birds themselves but about the conservation of many other species in the Seychelles islands. But don’t worry if you don’t see them there as they are quite easy to see all over the island if you know what you’re looking for (www.snpa.sc/). One sight that you don’t see everywhere is a sky full of fruit bats or flying foxes. They seem to take to the wing mainly in the evenings.

Hotel

I stayed at the Casa de Leela. This is on the outskirts of La Passe and is made up of a number of self-contained bungalows plus four large, comfortable, self-catering apartments on two floors in a modern building. I stayed in one of the latter and it was good value. The accommodation is situated in a garden and there is a small pool.The staff are very pleasant. It’s a bit too far from the centre of La Passe to walk there at night and the roads are very poorly lit, so a bicycle is probably necessary. Failing that, the owner will drop you off wherever you want to go and pick you up for €10 a trip ( www.casa-de-leela.bplaced.net/).

Restaurants

The best one I tried is the Italian restaurant at the attractive boutique hotel called Le Repaire. It was full the day I went and I had to wait a bit, but it was well worth it. The staff are very friendly and if you book in advance you may get a table in their tropical garden. The place also displays and sells George Camille’s work. All in all, a very nice place (www.lerepaireseychelles.com/). Another place which is recommended in the guidebooks for its Creole cuisine is Chez Marston. I tried to eat there, but after waiting for over an hour with no sign of the food arriving, I left. So I can’t comment on the food. The only thing I would say is that if you want to eat reasonably quickly in the high season when the place is packed, get there early! The Veuve Restaurant in La Digue Island Lodge is right next to the beach and has good views over to Praslin. The buffet is good value for money. The hotel also has a great pool if you’re thinking of staying there (www.ladigue.sc/). I also ate at the Le Combava restaurant in Le Domaine de l’Orangerie hotel, the most upmarket place on the island. The restaurant is beautifully designed and the food is very good, but it all comes at a price (www.orangeraie.sc/).