It’s
a real pleasure to wander round the narrow “streets” of Mykonos. I was there
just before the Greek Easter and the town was a hive of activity as the local
shopkeepers and restaurant owners prepared their businesses for the coming
months. And the result is well worth travelling to see. Contrary to what the
guidebooks say, it’s not that easy to get lost.
Leto Hotel
I
strongly recommend this hotel. It’s very conveniently located right on the
seafront overlooking the port and capital, Hora, which is a two-minute walk away, and the
view from the sea-facing rooms is excellent. Many of them have large balconies
from which you can watch the sun go down over Syros. The public rooms are
spacious and tastefully decorated and the breakfast buffet is very good value (www.letohotel.com/).
A street in Hora, Mykonos |
Restaurants
The
restaurants on the seafront of Hora all appeared to be of a good
standard. I ate at the Allegro Music Bar
and was not disappointed. I would also recommend the Appaloosa (appaloosa-mykonos.com/) and La Casa, which are on one of the narrow streets near the seafront.
Ancient Delos
Terrace of the Lions, Delos |
The
two guidebooks I consulted do not mention that you can reserve tickets to Delos
through the website of Delos Tours, the company that ferries visitors to and
from the island (www.delostours.gr/en/). It takes about
half an hour to get to the island and although there’s not a whole lot to see,
the excursion is very pleasant. Climb up Mt Kynthos for good views of the site
and the surrounding area. The on-site museum has a good selection of artefacts
found during excavations. Three hours is probably enough for a leisurely visit.
SANTORINI
Fira, Santorini |
Caldera Edge Walk
One
of the highlights of my visit to the island was the walk along the caldera edge
from Fira to Firostefani and Imeroviglia and back. The path is easy to follow
and offers breathtaking views all the way. The contrast of the white houses,
the blue sea and the brown sides of the caldera make it a photographer’s dream!
At Imeroviglia you can take the steps down to the natural fortress of Skaros
for good views back to Fira and across to Oia.
Oia
Don’t
miss this village on the northern tip of the island. The path that runs the
length of the village has amazing views of Santorini and the nearby volcanic
islets. The shops offer more upmarket products than the more touristy stuff on
sale in Fira and there are several good restaurants.
Oia, Santorini |
Ancient Thira
Even if you’re not particularly into ruins, the views
from this archaeological site are worth the trip up the steep switchback road
that starts in Kamari. You can also walk up from
Perissa or Kamari if you’re feeling fit. Apart from the views, there are a number of interesting rock carvings and the information boards give you a good idea of what the settlement was like.(www.santorini.com/archaeology/ancient_thira.htm)
Although there’s not a lot to see here either, the
remains of the pre-eruption settlement give you an idea of how people lived
here nearly 4000 years ago. It’s all protected by a giant roof and there are a
few Minoan-style amphorae at the far end. If you want to see the beautiful
frescoes that were discovered here, you have to go to the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in Fira.
Papyrus Mural from Ancient Akrotiri |
This is an art gallery-cum-winery just outside Kamari.
After checking out the paintings on display, you can opt for an explanation of
the different wines they produce and taste some of them. The staff are very
pleasant and informative (www.artspace-santorini.com/).
Just outside the town of Pyrgos, this large
cooperative has superb views over the caldera from its cafeteria and terrace
and an excellent shop where you can buy their wines and other produce from the
island. The tour is nothing special though (www.santowines.gr/).
I’m not surprised this restaurant is in all the
guidebooks. The staff are very friendly and professional and speak excellent
English. The food is well prepared and the portions large. They don’t take
reservations, but I didn’t have to wait long to get a table (www.mamashouse-santorini.gr/).
It’s a pleasant surprise to find this traditional
tavern on one of Fira’s most touristy streets. It’s a great place to eat
cheaply and well. No concessions are made to modern cuisine; just simple, tasty
fare served up by the jovial owner and his efficient serving staff. There’s no
wine list, only house wine in carafes.
In Pyrgos, a fifteen-minute drive from Fira, is this
excellent restaurant which uses local ingredients to produce superb Greek
dishes. The dining room is tastefully decorated and the staff are very friendly
and knowledgeable. It’s well worth the drive if you’re staying in Fira (selene.gr/).
A large garden full of trees and plants located just down the hill
from the centre of Fira, it's a great place to have a drink. The restaurant
looks very nice too, although I didn’t eat there myself (www.pelican.gr/cafe-winerestaurant/).