Madagascar

PLACES/TRIPS

Antananarivo Airport

I arrived at 11.30 at night on a plane carrying 450+ passengers and it took me over two hours to clear immigration, find my luggage and go through customs. There are no signs to tell you which of the several queues you should join and very few officials to deal with the simultaneous arrival of so many people. The result was chaos as people went from one queue to another trying to work out which one they should be in. When I finally found the right one I had to wait an hour and a half while a handful of immigration officers laboriously wrote out each visa by hand and stamped each passport. Having finally completed these formalities, it took another hour to drive to my hotel in downtown Tana. So be warned! Not a very encouraging introduction to the country!

Ialatsara Lemur Forest Camp

This reserve is a good place to break your journey if you’re travelling between Ambositra and Fianarantsoa. The owners are very welcoming and you can do a game walk on the property to see lemurs. There is also a small restaurant (www.madagascar-lemuriens.com/).

FCE train from Fianarantsoa to Manakara

The FCE train at Fianarantsoa

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My train left fairly punctually (at 8am, only one hour late) and took 12 hours to get to Manakara, which is pretty good going compared with some people’s experiences. Apparently it has arrived as late as midnight on some days. The journey is interesting (I wouldn’t use the LP guide’s word: “fascinating”, especially if you’ve done other scenic train rides). The scenery is attractive, but not spectacular. Perhaps the most interesting part are the stations where the train stops and where you can get off to stretch your legs and buy food or drinks and chat with the local people. It’s OK for the first 4 or 5 hours, but then becomes a bit repetitive and monotonous. Tourists usually travel in the best carriage, though local people can also book seats in it, so this is another opportunity to talk to Malagasy people. The carriage is very dilapidated and extremely cramped, however, and there’s very little legroom, so it’s a rather uncomfortable ride. If you can arrange to be picked up at one of the stations down the line after a few hours and then continue your journey by 4X4, you won’t really have missed much.

Ranomafana National Park

Quite a scenic park with a river running through it and clearly-marked trails that are quite steep in places. Apparently there are 11 species of lemur living within its boundaries, though I only saw a couple of them plus a tenrec and a giant jumping rat.

Anja Park

Ring-tailed lemur at Anja Park

This small park is well worth a visit. If my experience is anything to go by, you are guaranteed to see lots of ring-tailed lemurs very close up, so plenty of opportunities to watch their antics and take photos - it’s hard to put your camera down as the lemurs are so photogenic. You can see them feeding in the trees, gambolling about on the ground or sunning themselves on the large white rocks that make up the attractive landscape. If you stay at La Varangue Betsileo, you only have a short drive to the park in the morning and will be able to see the lemurs before the arrival of groups that have stayed the night in Ambalavao.

Tsiribihina River Trip

Riverboat on Tsiribihina River

I think I would recommend this trip to those who haven’t previously done any river trips in other parts of the world, but if this is not the case it is unlikely to be very interesting or memorable. The scenery is not unattractive, but at no point is it spectacular. There are some herons and kingfishers to see and one or two sections where cliffs rise up on both sides of the river, but apart from that there’s not a lot to see or do. Soon after leaving Miandrivazo on the first day my boat stopped at a waterfall with three small natural swimming pools and a troupe of brown lemurs. On the second day I visited a small, virtually deserted, village. And that was about it. To be honest, I was looking forward to the end of the trip from about halfway through the second day. Like the FCE train trip, I think it would be better if it were shorter. The whole trip could be done in two days (one night) if you left Miandrivazo early in the morning and arrived at Belo-sur-Tsiribihina late on the second day. The boat I was on was basic, but comfortable and the meals were very good. I spent the first night on the boat, but I wouldn’t recommend this as it can be uncomfortable and it gets very cold just before dawn. The second night was spent in a very small tent on a sandbar and although a bit claustrophobic was much warmer without being too hot. The other problem is that for some unknown reason the boats that do this trip have no toilet facilities of any kind, so you have to ask the captain to pull over to the bank every time nature calls. I fashioned a temporary solution to this problem by cutting the top off a litre-sized plastic bottle and this worked quite well. To conclude, perhaps the best thing I can say about this trip is that it gives you a break from the interminable hours spent on the road.

Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park

Grand Tsingy de Bemaraha

This park is divided into two parts.The Petit Tsingy part is next to Bekopaka village where most of the hotels are located and a typical visit involves being paddled up the Manambolo river past some impressive cliffs where you can visit some caves. Then you paddle back to Bekopaka and take one of the trails to climb up on top of the limestone pinnacles for good views of the surrounding area. The Grand Tsingy is an hour’s drive away over a bumpy dirt road (like all the "roads" in this area). When I arrived there was a group of sifakas in the trees nearby. They didn’t seem to mind our presence and I was able to get some good close-up photos. We then followed the trail into the park and eventually reached the point where we had to put on the harnesses. Climbing up to the top of the pinnacles on the via ferrata wasn’t as difficult as the guidebooks say. As long as you are in reasonable shape and don’t suffer from vertigo it’s not a particularly difficult climb. And it’s worth the effort in order to walk on the strange landscape on top of the tsingy and admire the panoramic views. On the way back to the 4X4 we saw two subspecies of coua and a ring-tailed mongoose.

Île Sainte Marie Island

This is a nice place to spend a few days. I didn’t see all the island because it rained for the first two of the four days I was there, but for me the highlight was the Île aux Nattes. It’s a short pirogue ride away at the southern-most tip of the island. A good walk is to go from where the pirogue drops you off to the pretty village (Aniribe) at the centre of the island. From there you can walk up to the lighthouse, which has good views over the island and out to sea. You then backtrack to the village and turn left to walk through fields to the western side of the island, where there are some nice beachfront hotels where you can stop for a drink and a snack. Another interesting place is the pirates’ cemetery just outside the rather run-down main town on the island: Ambodifotatra. For a small fee a guide takes you to the cemetery and tells you about some of the people buried there. The grave with the skull and crossbones is particularly evocative. I also visited the Parc Endemika, where a guide shows you a variety of animals like lemurs, chameleons and snakes.
 

HOTELS

 

 

Résidence Lapasoa (Antananarivo)

A bit of a disappointment. The LP guide describes it as “exquisite”, but the first room I stayed in was rather cramped because it had lost quite a bit of space to make room for the bathroom. The second time I stayed there I was given a room on the top floor, which LP describes as the “loveliest” rooms in the hotel, but mine was poorly furnished and decorated, which made it a bit stark and depressing. Having said that, the hotel staff are very pleasant and they also run the excellent Kudéta restaurant next door (see below), so it’s not a bad place to stay, you just need to take the LP description with a pinch of salt. (www.lapasoa.com/)

L’Artisan (Ambositra)

A good option if you’re stopping for the night in Ambositra. Not a place to stay for many days as the rooms are a bit dark. The restaurant is OK as well.

Villa Sylvestre (Fianarantsoa)

This hotel is within easy walking distance of Fianarantsoa railway station, which is useful if you’re taking the early-morning FCE train to Manakara. The room I stayed in was large, clean and well decorated. The staff were extremely friendly and anxious to please. It doesn't have much character, but I would definitely recommend this hotel. (www.villasylvestre.com/)

La Vanille Hotel (Manakara)

Better to stay at the beach bungalows 8km outside town rather than in the main building in Manakara. The bungalows are adequately furnished and quite spacious. There’s also a beachfront restaurant where I was served the largest lobster I’ve ever eaten! (www.facebook.com/Lavanillemanakara)

Centrest Sejour Hotel (Ranomafana)

Not a bad place to stay if you’re visiting Ranomafana National Park. It has large, although somewhat spartan, but very clean rooms, a pleasant public area built around a garden and good views of the neighbouring national park and the surrounding countryside. The restaurant is also good.

La Varangue Betsileo (Ambalavao)

View from La Varangue Betsileo

A very good option if you don’t want to stay in Ambalavao itself. Run by a very friendly French couple who have lived in Madagascar for many years, this hotel has magnificent views over the surrounding fields and hills. The rooms are cosy and comfortable and there is a small pool. The dinner and breakfast I ate there were also good. (www.varangue-betsileo.com/)

La Résidence Camélia (Antsirabe)

In a residential area of Antsirabe, this hotel has large comfortable rooms and a dark, but cosy sitting area and dining room. The food is good and the staff are efficient and friendly. I stayed there twice and would happily do so again. (www.laresidencecamelia.com/)

Grand Hotel du Tsingy de Bemaraha (Bekopaka)

Nice hotel in extensive grounds with comfortable bungalows and a large pool. The restaurant is the only negative aspect; it is strangely decorated with a large bar in the middle of the room. The staff are very keen to please, but a bit lacking in experience. (www.vazimbahotel.mg/)

Chez Maggie (Morondava)

Situated right on the beach overlooking the Mozambique Channel, this is a highly recommendable hotel with good-sized rooms set in a beautiful garden with a large swimming pool. The restaurant serves good food in very pleasant surroundings. (www.chezmaggie.com/)

Vakona Forest Lodge (Andasibe)

A beautifully designed lodge surrounded by lush rainforest and next to a lake, this was one of the best places I stayed at in Madagascar. The bungalows are large and situated in attractive locations in the garden. There is a large pool and the public areas are in a large thatched circular building around a fireplace. (www.hotelvakona.com/)

Princesse Bora Lodge and Spa (Île Sainte Marie)

The pool at the Princesse Bora

This is one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed at. The LP says: “…it has everything you could possibly imagine and it’s all perfect” and the Bradt: “…excellent in every respect”. I couldn’t agree more. The large bungalows are situated in a perfectly maintained tropical garden. They are spacious and very well equipped. If I had one, very minor, criticism of the hotel, it would be that the bungalows are a bit dark inside. The hotel has a great position right on the beach facing west and has good views across the reef to the mainland. There is a designer pool and all the public areas are very comfortable. Half board is a good option as there aren’t many dining alternatives nearby and the food is quite sophisticated and tasty. There is a wine cellar which stocks reasonably priced wine from South Africa, South America and France. The staff are very professional and efficient. All in all, a great place to spend a few days. (www.princesse-bora.com/)
 

RESTAURANTS

 

Kudéta Restaurant (Antananarivo)

A cosy restaurant with tasteful décor serving some very nice modern dishes. In this case I agree with LP’s very positive description. (www.lapasoa.com/kudeta-restaurant-club/)

Café de la Gare (Antananarivo)

Whilst I don’t believe it deserves the LP’s description of “fabulous”, this is a very well renovated brasserie-style restaurant in Tana’s Soarano railway station (the toilet's are in an old railway carriage!). It serves large portions of international dishes and puts on live music.

Mad Zebu Restaurant (Belo-sur-Tsiribihina)

The Mad Zebu restaurant

This a very good place to stop on your way between the Tsingy de Bemaraha NP and Morondava. It’s located in Belo-sur-Tsiribihina and serves very tasty modern dishes in a spotless, atttractive dining area.

Princesse Tsiribihina (Miandrivazo)

To break the journey between Morondava and Antsirabe I stopped for lunch at this hotel. The views from the dining room over the Tsiribihina river and Miandrivazo are excellent and the dining area is very pleasant and the food good. (www.princesse-tsiribihina.com/)

Mykonos & Santorini

MYKONOS & DELOS    



Hora, Mykonos

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Mykonos Town

It’s a real pleasure to wander round the narrow “streets” of Mykonos. I was there just before the Greek Easter and the town was a hive of activity as the local shopkeepers and restaurant owners prepared their businesses for the coming months. And the result is well worth travelling to see. Contrary to what the guidebooks say, it’s not that easy to get lost.

Leto Hotel

I strongly recommend this hotel. It’s very conveniently located right on the seafront overlooking the port and capital, Hora, which is a two-minute walk away, and the view from the sea-facing rooms is excellent. Many of them have large balconies from which you can watch the sun go down over Syros. The public rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated and the breakfast buffet is very good value (www.letohotel.com/).



A street in Hora, Mykonos

Restaurants

The restaurants on the seafront of Hora all appeared to be of a good standard. I ate at the Allegro Music Bar and was not disappointed. I would also recommend the Appaloosa (appaloosa-mykonos.com/) and La Casa, which are on one of the narrow streets near the seafront.

Ancient Delos



Terrace of the Lions, Delos



The two guidebooks I consulted do not mention that you can reserve tickets to Delos through the website of Delos Tours, the company that ferries visitors to and from the island (www.delostours.gr/en/). It takes about half an hour to get to the island and although there’s not a whole lot to see, the excursion is very pleasant. Climb up Mt Kynthos for good views of the site and the surrounding area. The on-site museum has a good selection of artefacts found during excavations. Three hours is probably enough for a leisurely visit.

SANTORINI

Fira, Santorini



Caldera Edge Walk

One of the highlights of my visit to the island was the walk along the caldera edge from Fira to Firostefani and Imeroviglia and back. The path is easy to follow and offers breathtaking views all the way. The contrast of the white houses, the blue sea and the brown sides of the caldera make it a photographer’s dream! At Imeroviglia you can take the steps down to the natural fortress of Skaros for good views back to Fira and across to Oia.

(www.santorini.com/castlefortresses/skarosrock.htm)

Oia

Don’t miss this village on the northern tip of the island. The path that runs the length of the village has amazing views of Santorini and the nearby volcanic islets. The shops offer more upmarket products than the more touristy stuff on sale in Fira and there are several good restaurants.

Oia, Santorini



Ancient Thira

Even if you’re not particularly into ruins, the views from this archaeological site are worth the trip up the steep switchback road that starts in Kamari. You can also walk up from Perissa or Kamari if you’re feeling fit. Apart from the views, there are a number of interesting rock carvings and the information boards give you a good idea of what the settlement was like.(www.santorini.com/archaeology/ancient_thira.htm)

 Ancient Akrotiri

Although there’s not a lot to see here either, the remains of the pre-eruption settlement give you an idea of how people lived here nearly 4000 years ago. It’s all protected by a giant roof and there are a few Minoan-style amphorae at the far end. If you want to see the beautiful frescoes that were discovered here, you have to go to the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in Fira.

(www.santorini.com/archaeology/akrotiri.htm)

Papyrus Mural from Ancient Akrotiri



 Art Space

This is an art gallery-cum-winery just outside Kamari. After checking out the paintings on display, you can opt for an explanation of the different wines they produce and taste some of them. The staff are very pleasant and informative (www.artspace-santorini.com/).

 Santo Winery

Just outside the town of Pyrgos, this large cooperative has superb views over the caldera from its cafeteria and terrace and an excellent shop where you can buy their wines and other produce from the island. The tour is nothing special though (www.santowines.gr/).

 RESTAURANTS & BARS

 Mama’s House

I’m not surprised this restaurant is in all the guidebooks. The staff are very friendly and professional and speak excellent English. The food is well prepared and the portions large. They don’t take reservations, but I didn’t have to wait long to get a table (www.mamashouse-santorini.gr/).

 Nikolas

It’s a pleasant surprise to find this traditional tavern on one of Fira’s most touristy streets. It’s a great place to eat cheaply and well. No concessions are made to modern cuisine; just simple, tasty fare served up by the jovial owner and his efficient serving staff. There’s no wine list, only house wine in carafes.

 Selene

In Pyrgos, a fifteen-minute drive from Fira, is this excellent restaurant which uses local ingredients to produce superb Greek dishes. The dining room is tastefully decorated and the staff are very friendly and knowledgeable. It’s well worth the drive if you’re staying in Fira (selene.gr/). 
 

Pelican Café and Wine Restaurant

A large garden full of trees and plants located just down the hill from the centre of Fira, it's a great place to have a drink. The restaurant looks very nice too, although I didn’t eat there myself (www.pelican.gr/cafe-winerestaurant/).

Seychelles

Anse Takamaka, Mahé Island

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Best time to visit

The best time to visit the Seychelles seems to be in October or early November when the weather is dry, there is little wind, the days are long, it's not too hot and the light is good. Late November to February are the wettest months coinciding with the north-west monsoon, which can bring long periods of heavy rain. However, the weather during these months is highly unpredictable and if you are unlucky your visit could coincide with several days of torrential downpours and relatively cool weather. When I was there at the end of December and beginning of January, the first week was hot and sunny while the second week was cloudy and very wet. March and April are the hottest months of the year. May to September is the time of the south-east monsoon, which is characterized by increasingly windy weather, progressively shorter days, and cloudy and cool weather. The rain at this time is very light and the humidity low. The above was mainly drawn from an excellent description of the Seychelles climate in the chapter “Seasons in the Sun” from the book “The Fortunate Islands" (see below).

Books

I found the following publications very interesting and readable:

• “The Fortunate Islands: Gossip from the Seychelles”, by Bernard Georges. This is a series of entertaining short chapters devoted to different aspects of life in the Seychelles, such as climate, food, etc.
• “Reveil Seychellois. Life in Seychelles 1770-1903”, by Denise Johnstone, which describes the tough lives of the early settlers and includes some interesting old photographs.
• “Islands in a Forgotten Sea. A History of the Seychelles, Mauritius, Réunion and Madagascar”, by T.V. Bulpin. This excellent book puts the history of the Seychelles within the context of the history of the other western Indian Ocean islands in the 18th and 19th centuries.
• The Bradt guide to the Seychelles is a comprehensive, very well-researched guidebook which covers every aspect of the islands you are likely to need to know about. The chapter on the Seychelles in the Lonely Planet guide is also good.

Mahé

Unless you plan to spend all your time on the beach or at your hotel, renting a car to explore Mahé is a rewarding experience. The roads are generally good, the scenery is beautiful and there are a number of interesting places and stunning beaches to visit.

Best bases

One of the best places to look for a hotel is the Beau Vallon area. It has a wide range of hotels to suit all budgets and lots of restaurants to choose from. Another good area is the south-western part of the island, which has a similar variety of accommodation and nearby dining options.

Victoria

The Clocktower, Victoria

Even though there are few notable sights worth visiting, the capital of the Seychelles is a pleasant little town to stroll around for a few hours. The highlights, in my opinion, are the Victoria Market; the well-maintained Botanical Gardens, which are a short walk from the centre and include a large enclosure for giant Aldabra tortoises; and Kenwyn House, which is a restored colonial house where you can buy jewellery, art, books and quality souvenirs. The Chanterelle bookshop opposite the Hindu Temple has a good selection of books about the Seychelles. Near to the Clock Tower is the Pirates Arms, a good place for a drink and a snack.

Sans Souci Road

This road, which starts in Victoria and takes you right over the mountains to the western coast of the island, is very scenic and includes a couple of worthwhile stops: the Capucin Mission Ruins and the Seyté Tea Factory. There is little to see of the old 19^th century Mission apart from a few piles of bricks, but it’s worth stopping here for the superb views over the eastern part of the island. I couldn’t find anyone to show me round the Tea Factory (it may be better to arrange a visit beforehand), but the panoramic views of the west coast more than made up for this. The factory has a tearoom where you can sample the different brews they sell.

Takamaka Bay Rum Distillery

On the east coast, right next to the sea, this is a very well-run operation which combines a tour of the distillery and the grounds, some historical information about the beautifully restored Creole house and its owners and a tasting of the different rums they produce, all of which are pretty good. There is also a very smart restaurant, which serves up some original dishes, such as fruit bat ravioli! (www.takamakabay.com/)

Beaches

Hiring a car allows you to stop off at and stroll along the island’s beautiful beaches, which are well worth a visit even if you're not planning to swim or sunbathe. They are one of the highlights of the Seychelles and it would be a real shame to miss them. Most of the ones that I found particularly attractive are in the south-western part of the island. From south to north, first there is Anse Intendance; then Anse Takamaka; and finally Anse Soleil, which is also the location of the Anse Soleil Beachcomber, a small hotel right on the beach that was highly recommended by an American couple I met (www.beachcomber.sc/). Much further north, at the end of the road on the west coast of the island is the beautiful beach which is part of the Port Launay Marine National Park.

Hotels

The pool at the Sunset Beach Hotel

I stayed at the Sunset Beach Hotel in Glacis, which is a five-minute drive north from Beau Vallon on the north-west coast of Mahé. This makes it very convenient for the restaurants at Beau Vallon, although you need a vehicle as it’s too far to walk. It's built on a small headland, which means that there are good views north towards Silhouette Island, west and south towards Beau Vallon. The lounge, restaurant and bar are located in large, high-ceiled, thatched buildings and the premises are full of flowering trees and shrubs. The swimming pool is quite large and overlooks the sea. It also has its own access to a very pretty little beach, where the best rooms are situated. The fact that it has only 28 rooms means that it is a quiet and relaxing place to stay. The room I stayed in was one of the standard rooms, but it was very large with a king-size bed, a lounge area, a large terrace and a well-appointed bathroom. The only drawbacks are that the night I dined there the food seemed very ordinary and the room rate per night is a bit expensive. Having said that, its position, design and general ambience make it a very pleasant option (www.thesunsethotelgroup.com/). As mentioned above, another very attractive and highly-recommended place to stay is the Anse Soleil Beachcomber in the south-west of the island.

Restaurants

There are a number of good restaurants in Beau Vallon. The most atmospheric is the Boathouse, which serves a tasty, reasonably-priced Creole buffet in an attractive building. Other good options I tried are La Plage and Mahek, an Indian restaurant in the Coral Strand Hotel. The Pirates Arms is a good place for lunch if you’re visiting Victoria.

Praslin

Praslin is about an hour’s ferry ride away from Mahé (watch out for flying fish!). Don’t forget to book your ticket in advance as the ferries are pretty full in the high season (www.catcocos.com/). Praslin is big enough to make it worthwhile hiring a car or a bicycle to explore. Anse Volbert is a good base as there is a wide variety of accommodation options and restaurants as well as supermarkets and other shops.

Font Ferdinand

A coco de mer palm at Fond Ferdinand

This is a new natural reserve which includes coco-de-mer palms and is along a dirt track a short distance inland from Marie Louise beach. It's actually better value than its more famous neighbour the Vallée de Mai because a guide is included with the entrance fee whereas you have to hire one separately at the other place. You walk steadily uphill along prepared paths while the guide tells you about the flora and fauna until you reach a viewpoint with good views down to Baie Ste Anne.

Beaches

The prettiest is without a doubt Anse Lazio, though Anse Marie Louise is also very nice. The guidebooks say that you can visit Anse Georgette on the north-west coast by asking at the main entrance of the resort that has enclosed it within its grounds, but I was refused permission when I tried to get there.

Cousin, Curieuse and Île St Pierre Islands



White-tailed tropicbird and chick on Cousin Island

This is a varied and interesting excursion. First you go to Cousin Island, where you stroll along mosquito-infested paths (don’t forget to apply mosquito repellent liberally before you start the visit!) looking at white-tailed tropicbirds and white terns nesting at ground level seemingly oblivious to the groups of visitors standing less than a metre away. The island is home to many other species (www.cousinisland.net/). Then you go to Curieuse Island where you have a barbecue lunch at Anse St José. After that you can visit the residence of Dr William Macgregor, a Scot who lived on the island for ten years in the 19th century treating the lepers who had been sent there, and read about his interesting career. Then you walk for about half an hour to beautiful Laraie Bay on the other side of the island, where there are many giant tortoises and you can swim at the beach and admire the rock formations. Finally, your boat takes you to Île St Pierre, a small islet between Curieuse and Praslin, where there is good snorkelling.

Hotel

I stayed at the Villas d’Or in Anse Volbert. At the end of a very grand driveway,  there are twelve large, very well-appointed bungalows right next to the beach and situated in a large garden. Breakfast is brought to your villa punctually every morning. Anse Volbert is about a 30-minute walk along the beach if you don’t have a car. The manager, Pierre, is a very friendly guy who manages the place extremely efficiently. The only drawback is the tiny swimming pool, but with the beach right on your doorstep, you don’t really need it. All in all it’s pretty good value for money.

Restaurants

In Anse Volbert the best restaurant that I tried is the Café des Arts. Decorated with original modern art, the food is pricey but very well prepared. Shorts are not allowed in the evening (www.cafe.sc/). Another good option is Les Lauriers, which organises a Creole buffet every evening. It was packed the night I went (www.laurier-seychelles.com/) . The meal I had at La Pirogue was also good value for money and the place itself is attractive and the service good. They also provide a free taxi service from your hotel to the restaurant and back.

La Digue

Map of La Digue

A 15-minute ferry ride from Praslin, La Digue is pleasantly different from the other two islands as there are very few vehicles and people get about on foot or by bicycle. Everywhere is within walking or cycling distance and there are no steep hills, except the one that leads up to the Bellevue restaurant and the Nid d'Aigles peak in the centre of the island. 

Walks

If you only do one excursion, make it the one to the beautiful beach at Anse Source d’Argent. To get there you have to pay SR100 at the entrance to L’Union Estate and then walk for about 20 minutes along a track past the run-down plantation buildings and a giant tortoise pen until you get to the series of beautiful white sand beaches "decorated" with huge rock formations and boulders – a very photogenic place. Another nice walk is through the centre of the island, past pretty local houses set in lush gardens to Grande Anse. It only takes about half an hour to walk there from La Passe. There is also a road that loops around La Passe past outlying houses and hotels and from which a road climbs steeply to the Belle Vue Restaurant (great views) and on to the highest point of the island, Le Nid d’Aigles. Finally, there is the road that goes north out of La Passe, round the northern-most tip of the island and then follows the eastern coast southwards past some pleasant beaches. Don’t miss George Camille’s colourful paintings at his art gallery at Anse Grosse Roche (www.georgecamille.sc/). His work is also on show and for sale at Le Repaire hotel/restaurant in La Passe. The road continues to Anse Banane, where there are a couple of juice stalls and then ends abruptly at Anse Fourmis.

Wildlife

An interesting visit is to the Veuve Special Reserve, which was set up to provide a home for the endangered Seychelles Black Paradise Flycatcher (veuve, or “widow” in French, is the local name for the bird). It is better to walk around the reserve with one of the conservationists, otherwise you probably won’t spot the birds. The information they give is interesting, not just about the birds themselves but about the conservation of many other species in the Seychelles islands. But don’t worry if you don’t see them there as they are quite easy to see all over the island if you know what you’re looking for (www.snpa.sc/). One sight that you don’t see everywhere is a sky full of fruit bats or flying foxes. They seem to take to the wing mainly in the evenings.

Hotel

I stayed at the Casa de Leela. This is on the outskirts of La Passe and is made up of a number of self-contained bungalows plus four large, comfortable, self-catering apartments on two floors in a modern building. I stayed in one of the latter and it was good value. The accommodation is situated in a garden and there is a small pool.The staff are very pleasant. It’s a bit too far from the centre of La Passe to walk there at night and the roads are very poorly lit, so a bicycle is probably necessary. Failing that, the owner will drop you off wherever you want to go and pick you up for €10 a trip ( www.casa-de-leela.bplaced.net/).

Restaurants

The best one I tried is the Italian restaurant at the attractive boutique hotel called Le Repaire. It was full the day I went and I had to wait a bit, but it was well worth it. The staff are very friendly and if you book in advance you may get a table in their tropical garden. The place also displays and sells George Camille’s work. All in all, a very nice place (www.lerepaireseychelles.com/). Another place which is recommended in the guidebooks for its Creole cuisine is Chez Marston. I tried to eat there, but after waiting for over an hour with no sign of the food arriving, I left. So I can’t comment on the food. The only thing I would say is that if you want to eat reasonably quickly in the high season when the place is packed, get there early! The Veuve Restaurant in La Digue Island Lodge is right next to the beach and has good views over to Praslin. The buffet is good value for money. The hotel also has a great pool if you’re thinking of staying there (www.ladigue.sc/). I also ate at the Le Combava restaurant in Le Domaine de l’Orangerie hotel, the most upmarket place on the island. The restaurant is beautifully designed and the food is very good, but it all comes at a price (www.orangeraie.sc/).